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Food was ok but severice was horrible. Couldn't get waitress to bring me more water. Most employees could not or would not speak English. Not a…. I was more than impressed with the food. Best Cici's in Lubbock. Buffet was full, food was hot, dinning room clean, friendly staff.

It is very obvious that manager Aswani has it together…. Got there at Made us special pizza on request, put out fresh salad,…. It's no wonder they line up to be the first in for lunch when Luby's Cafeteria opens here at in the morning. Luby's, headquartered in this booming Texas city, has 84 cafeterias scattered across Texas, Oklahoma and New Mexico.

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It is the most successful of five major chains and several small independents who together are redefining the word ''cafeteria'' and bringing big profits to a distinctly American form of dining out. But it is a custom that is almost a wholly Southern phenomenon. Luby's and its major competitors - Morrison's, Piccadilly, Furr's and Wyatt -are all based in the South. Whether they can be transplanted to the North is another matter. That cultural incompatibility, combined with the cafeteria's somewhat dowdy image among the young, who prefer ther the ambience of fast-food estabishments in both the North and the South, may ultimately limit the growth of the now-flourishing chains.

But for now, they are doing just fine where they are - below the Mason-Dixon line. The cafeteria, which never fully died out in the South, is as southern in spirit as the drawl, wilting heat and country cooking. The cafeterias tapped into that. John B. Lahourcade, Luby's president and chief executive officer agrees: ''When I grew up here as a kid, we didn't have many fancy restaurants in this part of the country. A couple of downtown-type coffee shops, a hotel dining room, several Mexican restaurants and one or two cafeterias.

And going into the cafeteria was perfectly acceptable. There are perhaps, too, other more tangible factors: The mild weather, plentiful low-cost space the typical Luby's requires more than two acres, including parking places and ready availability of low-cost eager-to-please labor, important to such a labor-intensive business. Except for two downtown locations, all Luby's are on suburban shopping arteries or in regional malls, and as such they seem to fit in better with the more dispersed, automobile-dependent style of life typical of fast-growing Southern cities.

The northern cafeterias, say restaurant experts, failed in large part because they failed to follow the suburban trend.

Few cafeterias remain in the north. The down-at-the-heels image of the cafeteria pervades the financial community, too. But nobody on Wall Street sneers anymore.

In May, Luby's Cafeterias Inc. And though analysts consider it overpriced, Luby's stock has defied gravity, reaching TKKK last week. Trainer, restaurant analyst with Merrill Lynch in New York.

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Indeed, while it is the smallest of the chains, Luby's is the most profitable. Last year its net income after taxes was 9. WHAT is perhaps most extraordinary about Luby's success is that it has achieved it with little advertising or market research. Its advertising budget is only about 0.

The chain employs no full-time public relations staff and only this year began formal market research to find new sites. It eschews coupons and other promotion gimmicks as ineffective. Instead, say analysts, the company has succeeded because of an effective and unusual management training and pay system and because of its adherence to high quality standards. Young recruits are put through a boot camp in downtown San Antonio during which they toil 12 hours a day six days a week doing everything from making salads to buying beef. The successful emerge three months later imbued with an almost religious devotion to the Luby's way, which stresses high quality, attention to detail and friendly attention to the customer.

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The young manager can expect to earn big bucks fast. Thus far, Luby's has never closed a cafeteria for lack of profitability and has replaced only five or six managers over the last 15 years. Mullins of Dean Witter Reynolds. He took his idea to Waco, Tex. The modern chain was started in by Harry Luby's son, Robert M. Luby, and Charles R. Johnston who are now retired. It grew slowly, to nine units by During this period the managers were investors who co-owned their stores, and they got 40 percent of the take, a figure originally set by Harry Luby.

The figure has never changed. And it is still heavily anchored in Texas, with 14 stores in San Antonio, 16 in Houston and four more planned for the Houston area. Outside of Texas, there are five units in Oklahoma and three in New Mexico.

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Lahourcade says the most likely ultimate route of expansion for Luby's is first the Midwest and last, the East Coast. THE competition resembles Luby's in some ways in terms of decor, service and food, too. But the differences can be deep, and they show up in the bottom line. Although all the chains are growing and profitable, none quite compares to Luby's. The year-old Morrison's chain, based in Mobile, Ala.

Unlike Luby's, Morrison's uses a central distribution system, though local managers do buy some items, like fresh milk and some produce, locally.